Destinations / Italy / Florence & Tuscany
Florence & Tuscany Travel Guide
Two or three nights in Florence for the art, then a few nights in the countryside with a car. Book the Uffizi, the David and the Duomo dome ahead, and keep the car out of the city center.
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Florence along the Arno or in the Oltrarno, then a Chianti estate 30 to 60 minutes out or Val d'Orcia for the classic cypress-lined hills.
April to May and September to October. The grape harvest runs late September to mid-October. July and August are very hot.
Florence 5-stars like Four Seasons and Portrait run about $1,000 to $2,800 a night; countryside resorts like Castello di Casole and Castiglion del Bosco about $1,300 to $3,000+. City tax is €8 per person per night at 5-star hotels.
The Uffizi and the Accademia (the David) are closed Mondays. The dome climb is only on the €30 Brunelleschi Pass, with a fixed time slot. Driving into Florence's center gets you fined by camera.
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Where I'm sending people now
Hawaii
Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.
Italy
Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.
Caribbean
Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.
Know before you go
Getting there
Florence's airport (FLR) is small and mostly connects through European hubs; Pisa (PSA) is about an hour away and Rome (FCO) flights pair easily with a 1.5-hour high-speed train to Florence Santa Maria Novella. Most long-haul travelers fly into Rome or Milan and take the train.
Getting around
Florence is walkable, so you don't need a car there and you don't want one with the ZTL fines. For Tuscany, either rent a car once you leave the city or book a driver for wine days, which I recommend if you plan to taste.
Money and tipping
Euros; cards work almost everywhere, but carry cash for small wineries and markets. Tipping isn't expected beyond rounding up, and many wineries charge for tastings, so book ahead.
How I'd spend 5 days
Day 1 Arrive by train, Duomo area, sunset at Piazzale Michelangelo
Day 2 Uffizi and Accademia with timed tickets, Oltrarno artisans
Day 3 Pick up a car or driver, Chianti wineries, stay in the countryside
Day 4 Val d'Orcia: Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano
Day 5 Siena in the morning, return the car and head out
Hotels I'd book in Florence & Tuscany
Things to do in Florence & Tuscany
Where to eat in Florence & Tuscany
Enoteca Pinchiorri
Osteria di Passignano
Buca Lapi
Il Santo Bevitore
Trattoria Sostanza
All'Antico Vinaio
Where I'm sending people now
Hawaii
Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.
Italy
Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.
Caribbean
Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.
Florence & Tuscany FAQ
Do I need to book the Uffizi and the David ahead?
In high season, yes. The Uffizi is €29 booked ahead or €25 on the day, with a €19 early-entry ticket and a €16 ticket after 4 p.m. The Accademia (the David) is €16 plus a booking fee. Both close on Mondays.
Can I climb the Duomo's dome without the Brunelleschi Pass?
No. The dome is only on the €30 Brunelleschi Pass, and you pick a fixed time slot; miss it and you lose the climb. The €20 Giotto Pass includes the bell tower instead.
Should I drive in Florence?
No. The center is a camera-enforced zone with fines of €80 to €335 plus rental company fees, often arriving months later. Pick up your car at Florence airport when you leave for the countryside.
Should I fly into Florence or Pisa?
There are no nonstop US flights to Florence. Connect in Europe to Florence airport, which is 22 minutes from the center by tram, or fly to Pisa and take the shuttle and train, about 70 minutes.
How much is Florence's hotel tax?
€8 per person per night at 5-star hotels and €7 at 4-star, for up to 7 nights.
When is the Tuscan harvest?
Sangiovese grapes are picked from late September to mid-October, and new olive oil comes in October and November. White truffle season is October and November.
Can I rent an apartment in central Florence?
Licensed rentals that already exist still operate, but new short-term rentals are banned in the historic center and self check-in key boxes are banned.
Do I need an International Driving Permit?
Yes, with a US license. The rental desk may not ask, but the police and your insurer can.