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Destinations  /  Caribbean  /  Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico Travel Guide

No passport needed for US citizens, under four hours from New York, and the best food scene in the Caribbean. Split your stay between San Juan and a beach resort in Dorado or Río Grande, and don't miss a bioluminescent bay.

Puerto Rico

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Where to stay

Old San Juan or Condado for food and history, Dorado or Río Grande (near El Yunque) for luxury resorts, Vieques for the brightest bio bay.

Best months

Mid-December to April is dry and busiest. May, June and November are good value. August to October is peak hurricane season.

Budget

Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve averages about $1,600 to $3,000 a night; the St. Regis Bahia Beach about $800 to $2,100; Fairmont El San Juan from about $300.

Heads-up

El Yunque no longer needs a reservation, but the road fills by about 8 a.m. and La Mina Falls is closed. Uber works in San Juan but can't pick you up at El Yunque, so plan your ride back.

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Hawaii

Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.

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Italy

Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.

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Caribbean

Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.

Where I'm sending people now

Hawaii

Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.

Italy

Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.

Caribbean

Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.

Know before you go

Getting there

San Juan (SJU) has nonstops from many US cities. US citizens don't need a passport, and international visitors follow US entry rules. Condado and Old San Juan are 15-20 minutes from the airport, and Dorado or Rio Grande 35-45 minutes; Aguadilla (BQN) is better for the west coast.

Getting around

In San Juan, Uber and taxis cover everything. Rent a car for El Yunque or the west coast, and make sure it has an AutoExpreso toll tag. Ferries to Vieques and Culebra run from Ceiba, about 75-90 minutes from SJU, but rental cars can't go on them.

Money and tipping

US dollars and cards everywhere. Expect sales tax around 11.5% on most purchases, tip like the US mainland, and check hotel bills for resort fees.

How I'd spend 5 days

Day 1  Arrive, Old San Juan walk, dinner in Condado

Day 2  El Yunque rainforest (arrive by 8 a.m.), Luquillo kiosks

Day 3  Ferry or short flight to Vieques, bioluminescent bay tour at night

Day 4  Vieques beaches, or Culebra's Flamenco Beach

Day 5  Back to San Juan, Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Hotels I'd book in Puerto Rico

El Conquistador Resort

El Conquistador Resort

 Perks when you book with me 

Fajardo, Puerto Rico

A big clifftop resort in Fajardo with its own island beach, recently renovated. Good for families.

Read my overview →

Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

 Perks when you book with me 

Dorado, Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico's top resort, on a quiet stretch of beach about 40 minutes west of San Juan.

Read my overview →

Fairmont El San Juan Hotel

Fairmont El San Juan Hotel

 Perks when you book with me 

Isla Verde, Puerto Rico

A classic Isla Verde resort minutes from the airport, with José Enrique's restaurant on site.

Read my overview →

See all hotels in Puerto Rico

See all hotels in Puerto Rico

 

3 hotels in my guide

Browse every hotel I recommend in Puerto Rico, and sort by price or who it's best for.

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Things to do in Puerto Rico

El Yunque rainforest tour

El Yunque rainforest tour

Waterfalls and a river swim, with pickup, so you don't have to fight for parking.

6.5 hours  |  from $75

Check availability →

Fajardo bioluminescent bay kayak

Fajardo bioluminescent bay kayak

Paddle through mangroves into a lagoon that glows when you move the water. Avoid full-moon nights.

About 2 hours  |  from $79

Check availability →

Mosquito Bay kayak on Vieques

Mosquito Bay kayak on Vieques

The brightest bio bay in the world. Worth an overnight on Vieques. No kids under 5.

About 2 hours  |  from $65

Check availability →

Culebra catamaran day

Culebra catamaran day

East Island Excursions sails to Culebra for snorkeling and lunch. Flamenco Beach depends on the sea that day.

6 hours  |  from $180

Check availability →

Old San Juan food tour

Old San Juan food tour

Four or five tastings and a cocktail while you learn the old city. Do it on your first day.

3 hours  |  from $179

Check availability →

Casa Bacardí

Casa Bacardí

Tours and mixology classes at the rum distillery across the bay from Old San Juan. 18 and up.

50 minutes to 2 hours  |  from $45

Check availability →

See all things to do in Puerto Rico

See all things to do in Puerto Rico

Browse every tour and experience I recommend in Puerto Rico, and sort by price, length or type.

6 picks in my guide

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Where to eat in Puerto Rico

Marmalade

Modern tasting menus · Old San Juan · $$$$

The special-occasion dinner in Old San Juan, with tasting menus and a big wine list.

Santaella

Modern Puerto Rican · La Placita, Santurce · $$$

Creative local cooking and great cocktails next to the La Placita market. Go before the square fills up on a weekend night.

Caña by José Enrique

Puerto Rican · Fairmont El San Juan, Isla Verde · $$$

José Enrique's newer restaurant, cooking the dishes he grew up with. Wednesday to Sunday.

Café Manolín

Puerto Rican diner · Old San Juan · $

A classic local diner for breakfast and lunch. Order the mofongo.

Where I'm sending people now

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Hawaii

Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.

Image by Rafael Peier

Italy

Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.

image.png

Caribbean

Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.

Puerto Rico FAQ

Do I need a passport for Puerto Rico?

No, not as a US citizen. You just need a REAL ID for the flight.

Do I need a reservation for El Yunque?

Not anymore. Entry is free and first-come, first-served; the road fills by about 8 a.m. El Portal visitor center is $8, and La Mina Falls is closed for construction.

Do I need a car?

Not in Old San Juan or Condado; Uber works in the San Juan area. Rent one for El Yunque, Fajardo or Dorado. Uber can't pick you up at El Yunque, so arrange your ride back.

Which bioluminescent bay is best?

Mosquito Bay on Vieques is the brightest, but you need to stay overnight on Vieques. Laguna Grande in Fajardo is the easy trip from San Juan. Tours don't run on full-moon nights, when the glow is weakest.

Is Flamenco Beach guaranteed on a Culebra tour?

No. Boats go where the sea allows and sometimes switch to Culebrita.

Is sargassum a problem?

It can be from about April to early November, especially on the southeast coast. 2026 was a heavy year.

Can kids tour Casa Bacardí?

No. All tours are 18 and up.

When is it cheapest to fly?

January usually has the lowest fares from New York, and late summer has the cheapest hotels.

Want me to plan your Puerto Rico trip?

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