Destinations / Italy / Rome
Rome Travel Guide
Book the big three before you land: the Colosseum, the Vatican and the Borghese Gallery. Then stay central, walk everywhere and keep your afternoons loose for long lunches.
Rome
Where I'm sending people now
Near the Spanish Steps for luxury hotels and shopping, Navona and the Pantheon to walk everywhere, Monti or Trastevere for a more local feel.
April to May and September to October. November, January and February are the quietest.
5-star hotels like Hotel de Russie, Hotel Eden and Six Senses run about $1,200 to $3,000+ a night, plus a €10 per person per night city tax at 5-star hotels.
Colosseum tickets carry your name, need matching ID and release 30 days out. The Vatican Museums are closed most Sundays. The Trevi Fountain now charges €2 to go down to the basin.
Where I'm sending people now
Hawaii
Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.
Italy
Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.
Caribbean
Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.
Where I'm sending people now
Hawaii
Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.
Italy
Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.
Caribbean
Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.
Know before you go
Getting there
Rome Fiumicino (FCO) is the main international airport, with nonstops from North America and connections through every European hub. The Leonardo Express train runs nonstop to Termini in about 32 minutes; a taxi to the historic center is a fixed flat fare and takes 40-60 minutes, or I can set up a private driver.
Getting around
Walk and use taxis; the center is compact and Uber is mostly Uber Black, so it costs more than a regular taxi. Don't drive, because the historic center is a ZTL zone with camera fines. The Metro is handy for the Vatican and Colosseum.
Money and tipping
Euros, and cards are widely accepted, though some small trattorias prefer cash. Tipping is optional, and the Trevi Fountain now charges a small fee (card only) to get down to the basin, while the city tourist tax is paid per person per night at your hotel.
How I'd spend 5 days
Day 1 Arrive, Pantheon, Piazza Navona and a Campo de' Fiori dinner
Day 2 Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill with a guide, Monti in the evening
Day 3 Vatican Museums and St. Peter's at opening, Trastevere dinner
Day 4 Borghese Gallery (reserve), Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain early or late
Day 5 Day trip to Orvieto or a food tour in Testaccio
Hotels I'd book in Rome
Things to do in Rome
Where to eat in Rome
La Pergola
Pierluigi
Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina
Armando al Pantheon
Da Enzo al 29
Bonci Pizzarium
Where I'm sending people now
Hawaii
Maui, Kauai, Oahu and the Big Island, and how to pick between them.
Italy
Rome and the Amalfi Coast, with the hotels and tours worth booking ahead.
Caribbean
Punta Cana, Turks and Caicos and Puerto Rico, all-inclusive and not.
Rome FAQ
Do I need to book the Colosseum ahead?
Yes. Tickets release 30 days out, each one carries a name, and you need ID that matches. The 'Full Experience' tickets add the underground or the arena floor.
Is the Vatican open on Sunday?
Only on the last Sunday of the month, when it's free from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and very crowded. Otherwise the Vatican Museums are closed on Sundays.
Does it cost money to see the Trevi Fountain?
Seeing it from the piazza is free. Going down the steps to the basin costs €2, paid by card. There's no time slot.
What should I wear to the Vatican and churches?
Shoulders and knees covered. It's enforced at the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's.
Taxi or train from Fiumicino airport?
A taxi is a €55 flat fare to anywhere inside the old city walls. The Leonardo Express train is €14 and takes 32 minutes to Termini station.
Should I rent a car in Rome?
No. The historic center is a camera-enforced zone, and each entry can mean a fine of about €80 to €335.
How much is Rome's hotel tax?
€10 per person per night at 5-star hotels and about €7.50 at 4-star, for up to 10 nights, usually paid at the hotel.
Is St. Peter's Basilica free?
Yes, though you'll wait in a security line. Climbing the dome costs €10 to €22 depending on whether you take the lift and book online.